Tonkatsu Tonki - Meguro station. Exit the station, cross the street to the left and walk down the hill. On your left side, past the bus stop, you will find a pachinko parlor. Take a left there and look for the entrance to Tonkatsu Tonki.
I've written about this place so many times, trying to explain... What is it about a place that serves only pork? A place that not only looks identical to my early food memories of 1976 when I went there as a child, but, yes... Some of the same people still work there. I am not joking. This place has Zen like simplicity and incredibly accuracy and consistency in food excellence. There is nothing like it. You walk into the doors and give your order to a man dressed in white. Behind the counter there is a process in place. The breading guy. The fry guy. The really, really old guy? He is the slicing guy. He cuts the perfect tonkatsu just before it's plated and served.
No time to wax terribly poetic just now. (This blog entry will morph as I delve into old essays I've put together for friends traveling to Japan for the first time) Suffice to say that this is *always* my first meal in Tokyo. I plan my flights to avoid Tuesdays (they are closed on Tuesdays). I hit Narita, take the train into Shibuya station and then cab it to a hotel. From there I shower, change and get right back to the Yamanote line for a quick ride to Meguro station. From there? Yes, that meal I can only dream of while living in America. There is great tonkatsu all over Japan, but nothing like Tonki's. The tonkatsu is served with shredded cabbage. Cabbage so sweet it pains me to eat cabbage upon my return to the U.S. You think I'm joking? Over stating my point? No. Not in the least. Sitting at the counter, whenever your desire, there is an endless stream of pickles, rice, cabbage and miso with fatty pork. You will never leave here hungry and each bite is cherished... The anticipation alone is overwhelming. As the 'oshibori' - hot towel - is placed in front of me when I first sit at the bar. Again when a bottle of Kirin arrives with those perfectly polished peanuts. Finally when they place the 'hire-katsu' in front of me? True religion.
Going to Tokyo? There is only one place that I would *never* miss. Tonkatsu Tonki. I've sent a steady stream of converts there over the years and sitting here now, far, far away? Trust me. The minute I book my next flight to Japan the anticipation of that next perfect meal begins.
