Pizzeria Delfina

San Francisco has had a pizza problem since the very start. Yes, the beautiful city by the bay has been famous for food since the gold rush. There were oysters back then actually thriving in the bay and local bakers made sour dough bread that was, i am sure, quite tasty… Fast forward to the modern age. Michelin Star restaurants and food from all over the globe. I could point you to places for amazing and perfectly authentic food from Russia to Cambodia and from Africa to India. San Francisco is a food lover’s paradise. Yet, for some very odd reason it has always been New York for pizza and bagels. Yes, we have always had both. But? Really? No. Well, then Anne and Crag Stoll of Delfina woke up one morning and undoubtedly had the same epiphany I’d been having for years. “Why is there no authentic, thin crust Italian Pizza in S.F? Why is there no amazing pizza here?” Unlike my years of bitter complaints they actually did something about it. They opened Pizzeria Delfina next door to Delfina. Nice. Is it good? Yes. Is it good enough to rant and rave about? Absolutely. Better than pizza in Italy? Sometimes. Yes. Well, let me just say that it is so damn close to some of the best pizza that I’ve had in Italy that well, it really doesn’t matter. A side-by-side taste test is not possible. Pizzeria Delfina is thin crust bliss in the Mission District of S.F. It does not try, in any way shape or form, to compare to the New York Slice. Nope. They serve whole pies that are fairly small. Each pizza comes hot out of the over hot and perfect…
But where am I now? Sitting on my couch. Surrounded by redwoods in the Santa Cruz Mountains. I sold my house in Bernal Heights and moved to the mountains. I am now 1.5 hours from Pizzeria Delfina. The distance has limited any impulsive pizza purchases. They say distance, at times, can make the heart grow fonder. Well, not sure about that logic, but I can assure you that when I am in San Francisco now I plan my meals with strategy and with purpose. There is also shopping, but I’ll get into the sorrow of shopping at say Johnnie’s vs. Avedano’s Holy Park Meat Market at another time… Yes, I come into the city and I plan my lunch carefully. Once or twice a week I am back in the land of quaint Victorians and the blight of chilly summer fog. I am in the land of amazing restaurants. I am in food heaven. So, I work for each and every meal in S.F. these days and I really appreciate them. Yep. So, Delfina?
Yesterday I was in the city and had lunch with Hideko. She and I met on a rare sunny day in August. Always exciting to leave the sunny comforts of the Santa Cruz Mountains and ride along the spine of the Mountain range flashing past different climactic zones. From hot to cold and back as I wind along the twisting road through the redwoods. Into the chilly wind along the Highway 35 looking off to the coast where a blanket of fog (and the cold) sits off shore menacingly… But today? It is hot and beautiful in the city. We get a table and the light and airy pizzeria. We chat with the waitress and are told to get the soup. This is always a good move. Beyond pizza? Everything on the menu is good to the point where it will make you weep. If sand dabs are in season you will find them on the menu. Always get the sand dabs. Today I get a “cherry pie” made from cherry tomatoes. Hideko gets the calzone. Our food is celestial. It is almost too good to believe.

The pizza is amazing. A pity they don’t deliver…

Mexican Food in The Santa Cruz Mountains

Don Quixote’s Mexican Restaurant – Felton
O.K. So, I moved here from San Francisco. I am very, very into food. I plan my travel around restaurants and spend far too long pondering options and ingredients when cooking. I guess I knew what I was getting into when deciding to move to the Santa Cruz Mountains. Not many options for high-end restaurants. Guess it depends on expectations as well…
Don Quixote’s, Felton? Looks like a dive bar with a sprawling restaurant attached and a venue for live music tossed in there for good measure. The first time Dianthe and I rolled over there on our bicycles there was some motorcycle club’s poker run taking place in the bar. So, a solid cluster of Harley’s and thuggish dudes milling about the bar. A nice older lady told us to sit “any place” we liked. We liked that. There were a good number of empty tables to choose from. A bad sign? A sign of the times? Not sure. Still, we sat and ordered cold bottles of Pacifico on the hot summer day.
Wound up getting chicken enchilada’s with a beef taco and a side of rice and beans. It was pretty average, but no real complaints. Kinda like Mexican fast food at a sit down restaurant. Still, it was not bad. This is what I was talking about earlier with “expectations.” Yes, I like the best food possible and if it were up to me there would be food from every country on earth available here in the woods. There would be more Michelin star restaurants here in the San Lorenzo Valley than in Paris. I would be really happy. Sadly, food here is not something that makes my heart sing. Food here is simply something warm to fill the belly. This is a sad state of affairs. Yep. It is why I sometimes need an escape to New York. Or an escape to Tokyo… Yes.
Still, Don Quixote’s is not bad at all. I have since been there a couple more times and am generally pleased to have a platter of Mexican treats for dinner. Living in the Santa Cruz Mountains is absolutely beautiful, but you really need to “kill it and grill it” as Ted Nugent once said… Otherwise you are at the mercy of some pretty average fare. I did move here to garden and to work out in the hills and in my kitchen. So, sniveling is only because I am being a baby… Oh, and Mexican food around here certainly works in a pinch.

The Boulder Creek Brewery & The Demise of an excellent Burger

The Boulder Creek Brewery – 2010
After college I moved to the somewhat sleepy beach town of Santa Cruz where I planned to make a living as a part time writer and as a full time surf bum. Ambitious, I know… So, I did just that. Found a magazine in L.A. that wound up publishing a series of articles under a pseudonym. Eventually I found that I was really not making enough money and I sold out and took a job selling software for a start-up company in Sunnyvale. So, I began commuting and eventually thinking that a spot halfway through the redwoods would be ideal to live. Boulder Creek. Nothing going on in this tiny mountain town. Perfection. Just redwoods and mountains and a tiny little microbrewery that, at the time, had some of the best beer in California. That alone would prove reason enough for me to move there.
In the early 90s The Boulder Creek Brewery was a destination brewery. This was really the start of microbreweries in California and the brewer at the time really got the concept. There were a number of classic “go to” beers on tap at all times. The Redwood Ale was an award winner and was consistently excellent. The Oatmeal Stout was strong and had a bite and the appearance of black coal. I loved that stout. They would also have amazing seasonal beers. High alcohol Belgian triples in the winter and one, particularly memorable, Belgian Wit, a Wheat beer flavored with coriander and orange peel… The food was also good. Really good. Californian Bar Comfort food. The Boulder Burger was big and had cheese, bacon and mushrooms… Ahhh… the glory days.
Since then the brewer and all the staff have moved on. The burgers have ranged from average to poor. Now, the beer is solid, but none of the amazing seasonal beers seem to be happening anymore. The Oatmeal Stout has lost it’s luster and the Redwood ale, well just not like the glory days. Hell, even the Lompico Gold IPA never came back after a change in brewers some time back. The new IPA is a solid beer… It’s just that the beer was a solid A plus at the Boulder Creek Brewery back in the 90s and now it’s a B. The food? It went from an A to a C minus.
Will I still go there? Hell yes. Is the beer good? Well, the IPA is good. The other beers are not strong enough for me. Yes, they make their own beer on site. It is still a microbrewery, but the glory days seem long, long ago. I want that crazy craft beer back! I want the best of the best! Why not? We are in California and a quick trip to a decent pub offers excellent beers from all over the state and all over the country. This was once a destination bar where people would go well out of their way to taste the best of the redwoods. Now? Sure, you get tourists rolling through town and a smattering of local drinkers. But destination brewery? Not by a long shot.
Oh, and the burger? Well, it’s not like it used to be. It’s smaller. It’s not as good. Ah, so sad….

Hayashi Tenpura - Tokyo

Hayashi Tempura – Perfection

By

Michael J. Skurko

Hayashi Tempura. The Temple of Tempura. We’ve made arrangements in advance per the suggestion of our “Food Guide to Tokyo.” With guide book in hand we follow the twisting treasure map from Nihonbashi subway station to this immaculate hole in the wall. We walk in the door and see that this shrine of tempura is an expression of culinary minimalism. At a glance it is… perfect. I have a good idea of what is to come from the restaurant guide and I am feeling a giddy sense of delicious anticipation.

The tempura bar itself is made from beautifully polished cypress wood. The wood is bleached and smooth from the religious fervor with which it is cleaned. We sit around the counter, Mom and I, awaiting the arrival of Saito-san. There are six other seats at the bar occupied by Japanese businessmen. They talk business as we sit transfixed by the calm before this culinary storm. At any moment the star will arrive. His slippers await him on the perfectly polished wood floor in front of the bar. A one man show. A one act play. Seating for eight. One setting per day. No menu. He’ll select what is the best, in seasonal seafood and vegetables. We know this from the book. Sweet shrimp, scallops, squid, kissu fish, and perfectly grown Japanese vegetables. Ah, yes… Anticipation mounting with increased tempo. Soon, the master will arrive. We are now waited on continually by nearly invisible wait staff. Crisp and cold, golden Yebisu beer appears in tiny glasses. Steamed ‘oshibori’ hand towels arrive on a bamboo tray. Mom and I are tucked in the corner enjoying the sanctity of our domain. Box seating at the culinary opera. To my right the six Japanese businessmen nibble on small snacks and drink sake. They chat and drink seemingly oblivious to the beauty of the place. The staff seems to know these men and do not need to ask what they need. Silent, nearly invisible service. These are the three people assisting Saito-san. One appears to be the food prep guy. The other two are dressed in kimono and waiting on customers at the counter.

The stage is set. Eight customers at a wooden bar in a tiny room in a towering building in Nihonbashi. Inside the setting is ancient. Outside the blinking lights and bleating horns seem a lifetime away. Here there is calm. Here there is perfect simplicity. If an item is not 100% required for the task of preparing tenpura it does not exist. A single gas tube connects to the industrial looking gas burner. This range is a circle of iron that sits atop the wooden counter. A single pan of clear oil.. To the left of that there is a stainless steel sink. There is a very narrow walkway where Saito-san will soon perform his tempura artwork. He makes the scene and slips into his slippers.

Saito-san. A humble, middle aged man has appeared. Silently, moving in front of the counter. He is a somber, serene man. He greets us each individually. His assistant has already brought today’s selection. From our seats we can see a beautiful array of scallops, live shrimp, kisso, asparagus, sora-mame (beans) and what we are later told are some special fish from lake Biwa. There’s a small pile of shiitake mushrooms and squid. Did I already mention that these creatures are very much alive? The shrimp are in a stainless steel bowl and are thrashing around until… Saito-san quickly goes to the task of preparing. He takes the prawns one at a time from the bowl and quickly and very effectively kills, shells and de-veins them in what appears to be a single martial arts move. It looks like he is performing miniature judo moves on these hapless shrimp. Quickly and effectively he is immobilizing their attack. His movements are practiced and precise. It is an amazing sight. I am transfixed. He plucks a trashing shrimp from the bowl and in two quick hand moves has rendered in ready for the batter. Poetry in motion. The businessmen to our right are still engrossed in the minutia of business talk. Mom and I remain speechless. We can not stop staring at the master in motion. How to describe this perfect moment? Timeless. Perfection. Zen. This is really huge and we haven’t even had a bite to eat yet. This man has an awe-inspiring presence. Over stated? Nope. This is what I am soon to find is the best tempura of my life.

So, now the food. Saito-san begins. He adds some flour and water to a stainless steel bowl. The oil is now quickly gaining in temperature. He takes the chopsticks and dips into the batter splashing a test dollop in. It spatters and dances at the surface of the oil. Must be approaching perfection. The prawns are now gently bathed in batter and slowly dropped into the oil. Amazing grace. The scent of ama-ebi, sweet shrimp, rises to my eager senses. I know what is coming. That extra special prawn is upencoming, soon to greet my lips. Saito-san lays a single prawn on my dish. As he places this gem at my plate of worship he smiles with modesty and suggests “sukoshi shio of tsukete ne..” This translates to “with just a little salt…” I dip the prawn first into the salt dish and then into the daikon oroshi, grated 'daikon' radish. Atop this standard garnish is something even more exquisite. There is fresh-grated ‘yuzu,’ a Japanese citrus that is similar to a lemon only with a more delicate and distinct flavor. To me the touch of yuzu in a meal is the essence of Japan. Ahhh… I move the prawn from my dipping sauce to my mouth. Sweet, delicate, delicious. Love, bliss, cosmic. Unlike any other culinary moment. The prawn and sauce give rise to five distinct flavors. I can taste it. I am in love.

There is nothing like Hayashi Tenpura. Yes, I would (and have) now come to Tokyo just to eat dinner here. It is that good. Each time. Magical.

Kurumazushi and the down economy in NYC

I have a hangover. This is not a metaphor for the credit related hangover that looms over world, but a real world hangover that is here because last night there were martinis and oysters followed by sushi and sake. oh, and there was also a lovely glass of Brunello at some random late night restaurant in SoHo. So, I'm having a hangover and pondering the economic meltdown while reading the Sunday New York Times in a hotel room with bagels, lox and cream cheese. (courtesy of one of the better old world deli's near SoHo, Russ and Daughters.) I am not looking for sympathy here. Nope. But a thought occurred to me and I'm wondering if others are starting to see these financial crisis ripple effects as well. Expensive dinners and business diners. Has there been a significant decline in business dinners, power lunches and the like? In a sample set of one? Granted not a scientific study... I would venture to say that the answer is "Yes." Last night we nailed a last minute 8pm reservation at Kurumazushi in New York. For the record and to the uninitiated, this is generally as likely as a winning pick in a state lottery. At first only the two of us at the bar. Dianthe and I chatting with Uezu-san and ordering the usual 'omakase,' chef's choice. Soon another diner and then a couple more. Well, here's what we had. A sweet Columbian woman and here husband from New Jersey celebrating their third wedding anniversary. ("We came into the city for the weekend and left our three year old at home with my mom.") A dude from Australia. Dianthe tells me that this man is "a hunk." Two seemingly drunk and continually laughing Jewish dudes, one of whom apparently "owns a catering company in the city." So? where are the Japanese business men? Where are the bankers? This place was once the play land of bankers and Japanese businessmen. I really want to ask Uezu-san, but steer away from the topic. It is a noticeable difference. I see people out for dinner and a good early evening sake buzz. There are no Blackberrys. There are no suits. Sweet. I think I like this. Why? Not a solo experience. Nope. After some sake and sushi? Soon we are *all* talking and this is about to become a party. (thus my hangover.)

The Real Deal: Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo. Dai-wa Sushi.

I've been back to Tokyo and had a chance to practice my standard jet lag result of either recovery & submission. Flying from California to Japan turns me upside down and I really don't mind all that much because without fail it has similar effects on every trip. I go to bed early on the first night and then wake up way, way too early the next day. Usually about 3am or so it's all over. I'm up looking out the window of the hotel to the glowing blinking red lights amidst the towering buildings. It won't be light for a while. I putter around, take a shower and plan the first day in Tokyo. It's simple. It's basic. I am taking a taxi to the Tsukiji Fish Market to wander around and take in the frenetic commerce. There's guys in rubber boots sauntering around smoking cigarettes and riding delivery vehicles at speed of true abandon in the narrow stalls. It's nice there and in the pre-dawn hour it's an amazing sight. Giant fresh tuna. Massive torpedo's of the sea. They are lined up in an huge arena and auctioned off. In the surrounding stalls there is every type of sea creature that I have ever seen and many, many more that I have never even imagined. In the decades of travel to Japan and well over a decade of living here and popping by periodically I never tire of the Tsukiji Fish Market. Walk around at 4:30am and take it all in. At 5am? It is time to begin to line up outside of Dai-Wa Sushi. Located within the confines proper, it is a tiny place which does not disappoint.

This time? Basic. In after a short 20 minute late and then belly up to the counter. The seats seem to get smaller and closer with each visit. The sushi master sees me as yet another 'gaijin' (foreigner) and smiles to greet me with a big 'hello!' Quickly 'oshibori' steamed hand towels are brought out and steaming hot tea comes out. The counter is beautifully polished white wood. I order the requisite sushi 'omakase.' The goods. His 'chu-toro' is better than the 'o-toro' I get back at home in California.

I pop a lovely, buttery 'hamachi' in my mouth and look around me. There are no business men here with their Blackberry's. There are no suits. None. This is not a spot for entertaining clients. This place is for locals, drunks and tourists. Several people come in and seem a little drunk. They order beer. Others are older and appear familiar with the sushi chef. They order all kinds of esoteric bits and pieces all the while chatting with the sushi chef about everything from the weather to politics. I love this place. If you are planning to come to Tokyo you need to wander the fish market and find this place. Worth the effort? Yes. Worth the trip? Well, I certainly think so. Do you like sushi? Have you been to Tokyo? Please tell me the answer is 'yes.' If you haven't been to Japan (or been to Kuruma-zushi in NYC) then it's quite likely you haven't had the real deal. Put down the mouse, log off this site and book a flight. Is it really that good? Trust me on this. There is something magical about a pre-sushi wander in the Tsukiji Fish Marget. It does wonders for the imagination as you stroll past massive crates of live king crab from the Northern waters of Aomori. Buckets of live eel. Soft shell crab, salmon, sea cucumber... It is an aquarium of treats and to eat sushi within the very heart of the market? Words can not describe. I salivate at the thought and hope you will too... Sushi? It all starts at the Tsukiji Fish Market. If you are eating an amazing hand roll at 'Uchi' in Austin I can guarantee you that 24 hours earlier it spent a bit of time at the Tsukiji Fish Market. If you eat at Dai-wa? Chances are good it's spent much less time clearing customs in Texas!

A few basic ordering tips

Sushi Savvy -

OK, I've probably said this before... If you are at a sushi bar and want to get the best of the best you really need to put yourself in the 'chef's hands.' 'omakase' or 'chef's choice' is the way to go. At some places this can be a pricey and somewhat dangerous move. "Hey, who put the poisonous blow fish on the menu!?" [just kidding. very, very unlikely that you would get 'fugu' on any 'omakase' without warning] Yes, there are places where you can add that safety net caveat of, say, a specific price ceiling... "omakase, and can we do $50 each?" This is a fine approach and seems to work well in and around the Americas.

What about those days when you just want a couple of very specific slices of fish? You can certainly order a la carte. I'm not sure if this is deep seated tradition or just what I was raised with in Japan. Generally, I like to go with some sashimi followed by a few nigiri (simple fish on rice *not* a roll) followed by the tamago(egg omellette) Generally your local sushi bar in America will have a photo menu where you can identify the fish you are familiar with and these are named both in English and in Japanese.

Light meal with some good options? For a small dinner I generally go with maguro (tuna), hamachi (yellow tail), uni (sea urchin), unagi (grilled eel) and... also, it's generally a good idea to be open to options. Order a few. Ask the chef what's fresh or what's good today and go with the directives. This will generally ensure you get the good stuff that's really fresh. Also, if you are going to get a few rolls I would opt for 'o-shinko-maki' which is a roll made generally from the yellow Japanese pickle. It's a perfect palate cleanser. 'Inari-zushi' is sweet rice surrounded with a brown tofu bi-product. It's another delightful palate cleanser. Some places make these incredibly well, and I'll always give a new place a try to see if they are up to snuff. If the sushi bar offers 'miso' soup you might want to add that to the mix as well... Any rolls that come with fresh Japanese 'shiso' leaf are also generally a good idea. The 'shiso' leaf has an unreal flavor that's similar to basil only with an unusual and particular finish.

Experiment and have fun. Generally a good idea to learn some of the Japanese names for the fish you like. Hamachi and Maguro are pretty basic. If you pick up some of the more esoteric names, like 'meji' your sushi chef will see that you have done your homework and likely done some of this homework in Japan. There are a lot of options out there and your chef and wait staff should be happy to help with your ongoing education process.

You'll find that in many places they will serve your sushi in the order you place it. If you really want the 'tamago' to come at the *end* of your meal you might need to mention it in some places.

So, you are ordering a few at a time and want more? Ask and they will keep em coming. Final tip of the day? Tea. You are at the sushi bar, possibly in Japan, where the wait staff and chef are actually Japanese? Looking to score style points? When you ask for tea skip the standard 'o-cha' and ask for 'agari.' This is how you order tea when you are at a sushi bar in Japan. Kinda geeky? Esoteric? Sure, but the bar staff will know that you know your stuff. Gotta take the points where you can get em!

Have fun out there and enjoy the fish!