Ramen - In S.F.? Go to Suzu!

Ramen. Ahhh, such a perfect and simple Japanese noodle dish in a bowl. I once heard the Japanese obsession with noodles to be similar to the world’s passion for pizza. Yes, perhaps... In Tokyo there is certainly more diversity in the ramen arena than I have seen in pizza. There is also that nagging issue of quality. Can you actually get a decent New York style slice outside of Manhattan? Real Italian pizza beyond Italy? I’ve tried and being somewhat pizza focused have found bad slices the world over. There are some countries, like Thailand, where I don’t even bother to try. Other places, like San Francisco, where I am continually on the hunt. [Pizzeria Delfina on 18th has got it nailed in a timeless homage to thin sliced Italian perfection] But ramen? Ramen is also tough here on the west coast… So, similar to finding authentic pizza here I have spent years of great frustration seeking out a decent bowl of noodles here often lamenting my time living in Tokyo where it was effortless to find exceptional ramen…
If you have not seen Juzo Itami’s film ‘Tanpopo,’ then you certainly need to for a better understanding of the Japanese noodle art. Ramen is many things coming together to form that perfect meal on a cold winter’s night. From the broth to the noodles to the thinly sliced pork and pink and white spiral of soft sliced fish cake. Ramen, with it’s diversity of flavors, ingredients, style and approach often reminds me of the diversity of Tokyo itself. Throughout the centuries Tokyo has pulled the best flavors, style and design from many countries to create an overwhelming and tasty whole. Yes, and of course many of my ramen memories come from perfect meals taken in somewhat cramped quarters enveloped in that perfect warm meal. The steaming cauldron of broth creating an aroma therapy which soothes, nurtures and heals me. Noodles are an undeniable allure. Ask an Italian what they think of pasta and you may notice their eyes glaze over as they wax poetic… Ask a Japanese about Ramen and you’ll find a similar passion for what may be more the national dish than even sushi.
Ramen, and it's unquestionable 'after glow,' is similar in many ways to the experience of soaking in a Japanese bath. An exceptional bowl warms me in a very real way that is comparable to soaking in a hot tub. You leave the ramen place just like you leave the tub. Warmed from the inside and with that perfect glow. Granted a good meal always makes me feel happy and warm, but the heat of the broth coupled with the spice of ‘shichimin’ keeps the warmth going even as I walk away from it’s source. Ahhh.. ramen.
So, where to go in San Francisco? Thus far I have found only one place that is perfection. Suzu. They are located in the Japan Center immediately downstairs from Kinokuniya Bookstore. The broth. The noodles. I am not sure quite how they are pulling it off, but I once read they make their noodles fresh daily. This certainly helps. One might guess that their broth is a closely guarded secret. If you go there I’d highly recommend the ‘miso ramen with extra chashu.’ A bottle of Sapporo and ‘edamame’ to start and you’ll experience perfection you’d normally need to fly to Tokyo to find.